I have this idyllic image of Nainital, my hometown, ensconced in my heart. It is almost like a traveller saving a perfect picture of his sweetheart in the recesses of his mind and seeking solace in the fact that he has someone beautiful to come home to.
In his memory he likes to see his beloved devoid of all imperfections or blemishes. Only when he comes face to face with her does he realise that her complexion may not be as smooth as he had imagined or she may have the beginnings of a wrinkle here or a light spot there. However, like these do not come in the way of love, my picture of Nainital does not take a beating when I go home and see concrete pathways substituting cobbled lanes, new structures rearing their ugly head in between trees or the commotion created by an increasing number of cars.
As I sit in the deathly pale environs of my swanky Delhi office, looking out of my window, all that meets the eyes is transformers instead of trees, hovels instead of hills and numerous cars instead of chirping birds. At such times I think of Nainital, as a haven with verdant hills and an emerald green lake, the memory of which cheers me up even in the gloomy enclosure.
It is no longer the sleepy little town it was during my childhood. Along with the roadside shacks, that fill the air with a strong fragrance of mountain masala tea, it now has a regular Cafe Coffee Day. Even the local Tibetian market has to compete with brands like Levi’s and Provogue, for though the consumerist culture may not have caught on heavily in small towns it has definitely made inroads.
Although it is painful to see excessive commercialisation of the town, yet for me it is home and has retained some of its endearing characteristics.
The crowded Tallital bazaar has been the same as it was in the early eighties, the only exception being the newly paved road. In the early morning the bazaar resounds with the excited chatter of school children accompanied by the screech of shutters, as shopkeepers gear to start their daily business. Afternoons, especially in winters, are a laid back affair. One can see a row of shopkeepers sunning themselves like lazy crocodiles on a river bank, some nodding off while others, like this old man, furtively glancing at every woman who happens to pass by.
Another permanent fixture is an unassuming woman in a small ramshackle dry cleaning shop near my house. She sits gazing out of the sole window in her shop, while her son and husband dexterously iron heaps of clothes, until the only creases left are perhaps the ones on her aging face. She reminds me of the senile patriarch in Marquez’s ‘One Hundred Years of Solitude', who is tied to a tree and is rooted to that position till the end of his life.
In Nainital, like any other small town, everyone knows everyone else, so gossip mills work round the clock (which can be quite unnerving). In between hot cups of tea and spicy snacks, conversations range from disclosures of elopements, inter-caste marriages, newborns, divorces, to the fall in fortunes of families and the monkey menace in the neighbourhood.